Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Tahiti / 2

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After everyone left and went back to their lives, I decided to stay because I didn't have much to do in Biarritz anyway. Days were going by and still not much too surf, but I was happy to be there just to enjoy the Island life for a bit. On the very last day, we had almost lost all hopes of good surf until we saw the waves in the morning: the swell looked a lot bigger and no wind. We were out there at 6 am, and it just kept getting better and better all day. I had the chance to watch and surf really good teahupoo with a few other people out, and being there with Raimana to help me get waves and Tim Mckenna shooting was something every surfer would dream about. I surfed for 7 hours and got some of the best waves I've ever had, and two whales came by us at the end of the day just to say hi. After that I met with my friend Hana at a barbecue and she showed me Tahiti by night. It was hard to stay awake after that day but had a lot of fun. A great way to end this trip. Maururu Tahiti and all my friends over there! I already want to go back !

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