I am now in France for a while, it is freezing cold but I got some fun waves today.
It is nice to go surf and see some white mountains in the background!
Well that is maybe the only nice thing about surfing freezing water (except maybe the hot chocolate after... that's pretty sweet). The rest is more like extreme suffering doing the first duck-dives and struggling to put your two feet on the board with heavy botties.
Anyway ut's all good and I am happy and training for next year. It is really exciting and I am enjoying some time home to prepare...
I'll be posting back soon,
happy new year to all!